Turquoise Silver Bracelet of Rigid Penannular Type

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This exceptionally simplified and ethnic looking piece of jewellery : a non flexible rigid cuff bracelet of Penannular type consisting of a flat one-and-a-half inches wide cylindrical band of pure silver and turquoise beads – forty-six in all, thirty-two smaller, and rest fourteen, large, besides enamel coating for blunting the background affording appropriate contrast to the stones set over it, represents one of the earliest jewellery traditions prevalent in India and around in the world for some five thousand years : the entire period of recorded past. During this long past this forearm ornament had enormous versions and as many mediums from clay and grasses to metals, ivory and bones and defined sometimes a regal, social and marital status, an ethnic group’s identity, splendour of the holder as also his fears and protections from them.

Besides their colour-depth adding to their richness, shreds of deep green and black suggest that the beads are obtained from rock turquoise which is indicative of their purer quality and rarity. Cut uniformly, oval-shaped and finished neatly, the thirty-two smaller beads lay embedded breadth-wise on the face of the cuff in eight courses of four each, and the larger ones, in seven courses of two each. Appearance-wise the cuff bracelet with a good number of fine turquoise pieces, perfect in colour and quite large in sizes, each set precisely in an individual unit designed to reveal various patterns : a unit of five of them, a larger one in the centre making the main body of a butter-fly and the four smaller, two on either side, its wings; another unit of four – two large and other two small, comprising a cute fairy, two smaller ones of them in the centre, one making her tiny face, and other, her body, and two larger ones on sides, her two large wings… is primarily a piece of jewellery, exclusive, captivating the eyes of those looking for something different, ethnic and exotic; however, as it combines the protective powers that turquoise is believed to be endowed with now for ages, it is as much an amulet, transforming it into a piece of amulet jewellery. These are such pieces of jewellery that the term ‘lucky charms’ most appropriately defines. It has an ornament’s charm and an amulet power to protect and bring good luck.

Turquoise is believed to ward off all hostile forces and protect from injury in mishap, falling from some height, especially the horseback. Though the trans-gender forearms ornament, till medieval days a bracelet, more so of the rigid type, embedded with turquoise beads was the chosen component of a male rider’s jewellery. It was believed to protect both, the rider and the horse. Turquoise rarely formed the part of female jewellery. Persians, all in admiration of turquoise for its beauty and power, considered it their national stone. They had a proverb that said that for escaping evil and attain good fortune one must see the reflection of the new moon either on the face of a friend, on a copy of the Koran, or on a turquoise; obviously, considering turquoise as potent in fighting evil and attaining good luck as a true friend and as the source and warrant of Law or religion, that is, whoever has a true friend, sacred scripture or a turquoise will be protected against harm. In any case, even though the healing powers of turquoises is doubted their beauty, and thus the beauty of this turquoise mounted bracelet, cannot be denied.

This description by Prof. P.C. Jain and Dr Daljeet. Prof. Jain specializes on the aesthetics of ancient Indian literature. Dr Daljeet is the chief curator of the Visual Arts Gallery at the National Museum of India, New Delhi. They have both collaborated on numerous books on Indian art and culture.