Ikat tradition is widely believed to have developed around the
turn of 19th century. The oldest center of 'Chirala', used to
produce the famous cotton 'Telia Rumals' or 'Chowkas' woven in
pairs and measuring 55 to 75 c.ms. square. These are
characterized by their bold, geometrical motifs, in red, black
and white, offset by wide single coloured borders, they were used
in Indian by fisher folk and cowherds as loincloths, lungis or
turbans. In the 1930's they were exported in large numbers to
Burma, the middle east and East Africa where they were known as
Asia Rumals. These rumals were called Telia because they were
dipped in a particular oil which used to give a distinct smell
even after years of its weaving. In the 1960s the all India
handicrafts board assisted the weavers of Pochampalli to start
weaving these Telia Rumal designs into sarees.
This sari is woven in the true tradition of the telia rumals with
a red background and bold geometrical motifs all over. The
outstanding feature of the Telia saris is the uniformity of
design on the body, border and also the Pallav. They all merge
together. Telias are now dwindling and hence this sari could
become a collectors item.
This description by Bhanupriya
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Of Related Interest:
The Indian Sari : Fashioning the Female Form (Article)
Textiles
times since 2nd Oct, 2008
