Through Town and Jungle (Fourteen Thousand Miles A Wheel Among The Temples and People of The Indian Plain)
A couple of years ago the National Archives of India launched a ‘Reprint Series’. The intent was to make high quality published books accessible to the present-day readers. Many of the original editions of those books are to be found in our collection at the National Archives of India.
I am delighted Through Town and Jungle: Fourteen Thousand Miles A Wheel Among the Temples and People of the Indian Plain by William Hunter Workman and Fanny Bullock Workman. I trust this Will generate greater interest in reprinting classics published under the Raj.
Scattered over the broad expanse of the Indian peninsula from Cape Comorin to the Himalayas and beyond are ruins of architecture and art, which show that, at a time when the greater part of Europe was slumbering in the darkness of barbarism, civilizations existed in India, that produced remarkable monuments expressive of Eastern habits of thought and embodying features never attained in the West, which to-day excite the admiration of all who study them.
Since these structures were built the genius which created them has died out, the civilizations have faded, and building art has fallen to a low level. The centres of population have changed, whole peoples have disappeared, and where the former builders lived by the million many of the works of their hands stands to-day in the midst of lonely and not easily accessible jungles.
Without including the art of Burma, which is quite different from that of India, there are six styles of architecture in India, each distinct in itself though possessing more or less affinity to the others, each the outcome of religious thought and traditions viz.-Buddhist, Indo-Aryan, Jain, Dravidian, Chalukyan, and Mohammedan. The remains now existing embrace structural temples, cave temples cut in rock hills and in huge boulders, sculptures on rock, figures of animals, towers, palaces mosques, and tombs.
Our object in visiting India was chiefly to study these remains. To see even a tithe of the comparatively few now left required extensive travel of a primitive kind and the endurance of much hardship.
We set out to make the necessary journey on cycles so far as the existence of roads would permit, and in the execution of our purpose we cycled with some interruptions, where roads failed, from near the southern extremity of India northward far into Kashmir, and from Cuttack on the eastern coast over Calcutta across the whole breath of India to Somnath Patan on the Arabian Sea, besides leaving the main lines at many points to travel in the interior. This journey occupied three cold weathers, and in the course of it we cycled above fourteen thousand miles as measured by cyclometer, besides covering thousand more by rail, steamboat, tonga, tum-tum, bullock-cart, palki, and on foot, visiting nearly all parts of the Peninsula.
With a several weeks’ tour in Burma we also cycled extensively Ceylon, and from Batavia through the island of Java to Soerabaya at its eastern extremity, visiting the remarkable temples at Boro Boedor, Brambannan, the Dieng Plateau, Singasari and other places, and spent ten days at the great temples at Angkor in Siam, all off which show a strong Indian influence and are considered to be largely the work of Indian artisans.
During a second visit to India of two years’ duration we were able to verify our first impressions. We were present at the great Durbar at Delhi, where was a display of Oriental magnificence, the like of which has not been seen in India for a time, could now be seen nowhere else, and may be seen again.
In the summer of 1903, while we were absent on our expedition Srinagar hotel were destroyed in the great flood which swept over the Kashmir Valley, and destroyed in the great flood which swept over the Kashmir Valley, and among them many hundred photographs and negatives of Indian scenes, from which this book was to have been illustrated. To partially replace these three months of the winter of 1903-1904 were devoted to revisiting as many temple centres as possible but the number that could be reached was comparatively small, and lost negatives of many types and objects of interest mentioned in the following pages could not be replaced. Quite a number of photographs more or less damaged have however been used.
In the course of our Indian wandering we found many things of interest, besides architectural remains, in the country itself and manners and customs of the people, some of which we attempt to describe in this narrative.
Careless readers are apt to distort the meaning of and to make unwarrantable deductions from the statements of authors and to ascribe to the latter conclusions which their writings do not justify. Authors may mention facts, which are patent to all, without making themselves responsible for any opinions as to their bearing or the conditions which underlie them. Facts speaks for themselves, and may be taken as straws to show which way the wind blows, but we would say here, that any conclusions, except such as we ourselves state, based on straws we may drop, are made on the responsibility, of those making them and not on ours.
While it is impossible for any one with his eyes open to travel extensively in a country like India teeming with millions of different races and religious without meeting with conditions that might in his opinion be improved, yet one must also be impressed with the magnitude f the task, which the Government of India had has on its hands, and of the immense difficulty in the face of human limitations of correcting abuses, which have their origin in and religious customs and prejudices, that cannot lightly be interfered with.
Hence realising that on traveler, unless he has lived a long time in a country and had special opportunities of studying its institutions, is in a position to understand fully the problems that confront its Government, much less to criticise the administration of its affairs, we leave all questions of politics to those better equipped in such matters.
It is, however, a well-known fact that an alert traveler sees more of a country in certain ways than its inhabitants. His impression are more vivid, he notices much that familiarity and habit cause them to overlook, and from the point of view of a disinterested party he can see the true bearing of events, in regard to which their judgment may be biased.
The difficulties of travel, the study of nature, architecture and sculpture, the manners and customs of the people, and the conditions of existence, gave us enough to do furnished more material than can be crowded into one volume.
A cycle tour in India id quite a different things form what it is in the countries of Europe, in Algeria, or even in Ceylon and Java. In all of these countries what may night in something that passes under the name of an inn or hotel, where one’s most pressing necessities are provided for. At least a bed, be it ever so poor, with a mattress and coverings, towels, and food, are to be had.
In India hotels, many of which are exceedingly uncomfortable places to stop at, are found only in the larger cities, which are comparatively few in number and scattered over a wide area. The cyclist has to find shelter on the greater part of hi in dak bungalows, the only places accessible to the public that represent an inn, which are by no means always to be found in localities convenient to him, or in inspection or engineer bungalows built at certain places for the use of Government officials when on duty, which can only be occupied by permission of the Executive Engineer or some other office of the district, who usually lives too far away from the bungalow to admit of the required permission being readily obtained.
The bungalows are generally, through not always, provided with bedsteads or charpoys consisting of a wooden frame held together by an interlacing or broad cotton tape, tables, chairs and a heterogeneous, often exceedingly small amount of china. This lat we have more than once seen reduced to two or three pieces. Mattresses, pillows, and linen, are rarely found.
Failing to meet with a bungalow the cyclist may occasionally find a refuge in the waiting-room of a small railway station, containing two wooden chairs and a wooden bench, or he may be obliged occupy the porch of some native building. On rare occasions a missionary or planter may take pity on him and lodge him, which hospitality he regards as a godsend and duly appreciates.
|Chapter I||The Hotel at Tuticorin||1|
|Madura a South Indian Tourist Mecca|
|An Interview with a Native Missionary|
|Difficulty of Finding Lodgings and Food on the Highways-Crossing Rivers|
|Returns expected by Natives for Services Rendered-Colour the Keynote of Dravidian India|
|Our Travelling Com|
|panions the Birds and Animals…|
|Chapter II||The Dravidian Race and the Style of its Temples||15|
|The Dak Bungalow at Chidambaran|
|Some Beautiful Shrines|
|A Visit to an Idol and a Temple Procession|
|Indian Methods of Irrigation|
|Mahabalipur and the manifold attractions of its Temples|
|Sculptures and Scenery|
|Chapter III||En Route from Madras to Ootacamund||38|
|How We were made comfortable at Ranipat|
|The Temple at Vellore|
|Railway Station Waiting-rooms|
|Crossing a River in a Lotus-leaf Boat|
|Curious Figures on the Roadside|
|The Long Ascent to the Blue Hills|
|Ootacamund the Mountain Paradise of the South|
|The Aboriginal Todas, their Habits and Customs…|
|Chapter IV||From the Rhododendron-clad Hills to the Mysore Jungle||63|
|Our Madrasi Bearer|
|Indian Hotels and Cookery|
|The Chamundi Bull|
|The Chalu- kyan Temple at Somnathpur|
|The Babu in Government employ|
|Relation of the Chicken to the Bungalow dietary|
|Chapter V||The Temples at Belur and Hulabid||85|
|Disappearance of Temples|
|Trees and Vegetation as Temple Destroyers|
|Narrow Ideas of Europeans regarding Indian Temple Architecture|
|Temples at Nagalpur, Harranhalli and Kora-vangula|
|More about our Christian Servant|
|Features of the Mysore Plateau|
|The beautiful Gopuras at Tadpatri|
|An Experience with and Observations on Thirst|
|Chapter VI||Charms of the Chadarghat Hotel-Hyderabad Deccan a Centre for Indian Types||121|
|Enlightened Native Gentlemen and a Glimpse behind the Purdah of their fair unenlightened Wives|
|More splendid but neglected Chalukyan Art at Hammancondah|
|The Torans at Warangal|
|Our Record Cycle Run in India|
|Hospitality of Palmar Missionaries, their School|
|Palm and Banyan|
|Unbridged Rivers and Sandy Nullahs|
|Hampi Capital of Ancient Vijayanagar|
|Chapter VII||Early Jain Architecture at Gadag and Lakkundi||139|
|Reception at Lakkundi|
|In Plague-infected Districts|
|Thorny Roads deadly to Cycle Tyres|
|Self-sealing Air Tubes|
|Chapter VIII||Buddhist Cave Temples at Bhaja and Karli||146|
|The Dak Bungalows at Pachora and Ferdapur|
|What the Ajanta Caves tell of Buddhist Art|
|Remarkable Mural Frescoes|
|Buddhist, Brahman, and Jain Caves at Ellora|
|Chapter IX||The Sanchi Tope-The "New Man" in India||172|
|Gwalior the Splendid|
|Legend of its Origin|
|Painted Palace of Man Singh|
|Temple of Padmanatha|
|Rock-cut Statues of Jain Prophets|
|The Taj Mahal….|
|Temple of Gobind Deva at Bindrabun and its Monkeys|
|Deeg and its double corniced Palace|
|The Hodal Bungalow and the Municipal Officer|
|The Grand Trunk Road|
|The Golden Temple at Amritzar|
|Chapter XI||Pioneer Cycle Run from Darjeeling to Calcutta||204|
|Opinions and Advice of disin-terested Persons|
|-Descent to Siliguri|
|Tiffin under a Banyan facing Everest and Kanchenjanga|
|Country, Birds, and Animals South of Bhagalpur|
|The Bungalow at Noneghat|
|A curious Sunrise Refraction|
|Chapter XII||Orissa, the Land of Rivers||211|
|Midnapore, Jelasore, Soro-Jajpur and its Hindu Gods|
|On to Cuttack|
|Palm-bordered Pilgrim Route to Puri|
|Jagannath and his Temple|
|In Palkis by Night to Konarak|
|The Black Pagoda….|
|Chapter XIII||Approach to the Temple City of Bhuvaneswara||233|
|Visiting the Saivite Shrines|
|The Great Temple|
|Temple of Mukteswara|
|Floral and Animal Sculpture|
|Buddhist Caves at Udayagiri and Kbandagiri….|
|Chapter XIV||From Calcutta Westward on the Grand Trunk Road||247|
|through the Bengal Coal Region|
|Buddh-Gaya, the Birthplace of Buddhism|
|The Temple-Asoka Rail|
|Causeway over River Sonne|
|The All-knowing Man at the Dehri Bungalow|
|The hospitable Sasseram Resident|
|The Tope of Sarnath|
|The Holy Man|
|Mahoba the First Chandel Capital|
|The Kakra Temple|
|The Mahoba Club….|
|Chapter XV||To Khajuraha via Chhatarpur||264|
|Guests of the State|
|The First Meal|
|Splendid and Elaborate Hindu and Jain Temples|
|The Ghantai, Mahadeo, and Parswanatha|
|Second Visit to Khajuraha….|
|Chapter XVI||Mediaeval Palaces||280|
|Jeypore a modern Rajput City|
|Deficient Accommodation for Visitors at Ajmere|
|In the Bikanir Desert|
|A Night ill an open Choultri at Sojate|
|Cenotaphs of Rajputana|
|Dawn on the Road to Bundi|
|A picturesque City, attractive Streets, Monuments and Temples|
|A Palace of Tangled Walls and Winding Passages|
|Chitor a Dead City, once the important Capital of the Children of the Sun|
|Its Romantic History|
|How Women as well as Men died for the Glory of Chitor|
|The final Fall of the City…|
|The Island Palaces|
|A Royal Pro-cession|
|Udaipur in Bhopal|
|Legend of building of the Temple|
|Temple of Ambarnath|
|Mandu the Old Ghori Capital|
|The Patan Dome|
|Interesting Remains on Island of Mandata….|
|Chapter XIX||Famine, Scenery and People in the Bhil Country||330|
|Story of its Founding|
|Ahmedabad the City of Dust-Its Unique Indo|
|Vicissitudes under many Rulers…|
|A Parched and Famine-stricken Land|
|Hill of the Jains|
|Old Buddhist Caves ill the Uparcot|
|Palitana and the Sacred Hill of Sutrunjya|
|Siege by Mahmud of Ghazni|
|Temple and other Remnants of former Splendour…|
|Mardan and other Centres of Grseco|
|Visit to the Khan of Shiwa in Yusafsai|
Item Code: NAL987 Author: William Hunter Workman and Fanny Bullock Workman Cover: Hardcover Edition: 2013 Publisher: Primus Books ISBN: 9789380607696 Language: English Size: 9.5 inch X 6.5 inch Pages: 402 (Throughout B/W Illustrations) Other Details: Weight of the Book: 840 gms
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