Odisha is considered one of the major handloom-concentrated states in India and its handloom products are recognized all over the country and abroad for their highly artistic and intricate designs, color combinations, and durability even today. Bomkai Silk Sarees and dress materials are very famous all over India for their excellent workmanship, design, and color combination.
The handloom originated from a small village called Bomkai in Patrapur Tahsil of Ganjam district and originally it was woven with coarser cotton yarn. The characteristic of this traditional Bomkai lies in the stepping and shaft formula and the regular motif remains the same in any composition.
The uniqueness is that there is no fixed layout for the Anchal panels developed by extra weft in various colors. The Bhulia community of Sonepur district primarily produced this kind of embroidered saree. It originated during the time of the then-ruler of Patna Ramai Dev. Such Bomkai sarees come with buti and temple borders.
Beginning with the history, as usual, the earliest Bomkais were made using a technique known as jaalas. Woven with a low count of Cotton yarn, Bomkai saree is a weaving industry that makes use of both the weft and warp techniques. The major occupation of the people of the Chikiti tehsil, Bomkai gets its name from the Bomkai village of Odisha.
The main steps in the manufacturing of Bomkai include dyeing, dressing the loom, as well as weaving. Materials used include a pit loom, dye vats, thread, cotton/silk, or dyes. While Odisha still makes use of the Jaala technique for creating certain unique pieces of Bomkai and retaining the original flavor of the craft, the industry has not been able to escape the influence of modern-day mechanization.
However, the changing face of the industry does not, in any way, interfere with the love that people instill for Bomkai. It’s the creativity and the love of the people for Bomkai that sparks innumerable concepts within the domain of Bomkai industries.
Innumerable varieties of Bomkai have been introduced to date by people belonging to the Southern parts of Odisha. Some of the most popular ones though include Sonepuri, Pasapali, Barpali, and Bapta sarees. Bomkai still retains the original technique of weaving through the jala (net-like) technique and has not shifted entirely to the jacquard and dobby techniques like a lot of other weaving traditions.
This method uses both weft and warp techniques and the sarees can be made using a very less cotton yarn. The jala is a kind of frame on which the nakshabandhs or designers first create the designs using threads, which are then attached to the pit loom on which the final weaving takes place. For more complicated designs, two jalas are used.
Once Bomkai sarees started using zari (threads made of gold or silver), it increased its popularity and led to an increase in Bomkai’s market demand and value. Weavers began to use the zari as a base on which the rest of the threadwork was done and the sparkling base helps create a newer style.
Some of the famous varieties that are based on Bomkai and zari weave include Sonepuri, Pasapali, Barpali, and Bapta. In addition to traditional sarees, contemporary weavers also make other garments like suits, stoles, shawls, and so on to cater to a younger market and make the trade inclusive.
There is an encouraging trend for handloom in domestic as well as international markets today and we craftsmen are putting our best forward to be a part of it. The modern-day challenge, however, has been how to contemporize handloom without taking away from the warp and weft for which it is sought after and artists from Odisha have done it beautifully.
It is an outcome of Ikat and embroidery interwoven into each other. The borders are often in contrasting colors and the pallus is marked by intricate threadwork. The motifs on the Bomkai are inspired by nature and tribal art, giving the saree a fascinating look that makes it perfect for aristocracy. Bomkai sarees are available in cotton and silk fabrics.
The historical significance of Bomkai emerges from the fact that Bomkai is one of the traditional faces of a designer Odisha; and, showcases the adept works of an artisan. Also known as Sonepuri the embroidered cloth is a type of saree that was first crafted in the southern coastal parts of Odisha. Undoubtedly then, the fabric carried an essence of the ensembles that originated on the shores.
While most of the coastal areas of Southern Odisha are involved in the creation of Bomkai sarees, it is in Sonepur that the prettiest of the fabric facades are found. Locally known as ‘Bandha’ Bomkai's concept of sarees has been a part of the Orissan culture since 600 B.C. An outcome of Ikat and embroidery interweaved into each other, Bomkai is a magnificent innovation that has taken over the textile industry and given it a global push.
Traditionally worn as an auspicious attire by the Brahmins of the South during rituals, Bomkai or Sonepuri today is counted amongst one of the most highly thought of attires in the state of Odisha and an illustrious one in other parts of the country.
Unlike most of the common forms of designs that are painted on the face of various fabrics, Bomkai dares to be different. The motifs and designs portray mythology and well-kept secrets of the past. Inspired by folklore that springs from the roots of the Orissan culture, Bomkai is the heart of the textile industry of Southern India. However, Bomkai doesn’t ignore the inspirations that nature offers to everyone completely free of cost.
Designs composed in the most outlandish of concepts string together motifs from offerings of the environment including karela (bitter gourd), the atasi flower, the kanthi phul (small flower), Macchi (fly), rui Macchi (carp-fish), koincha (tortoise), Padma (lotus), Mayura (peacock), and charai (bird). A significant part of the finishing in Bomkai sarees can be attributed to the borders or pallavs.
Some of the sarees feature border motifs that are inspired by tribal art. A few examples include Mitkta Panjia, Kumbha, Rudraksha, and Floral. Colors, on the other hand, are inspired by the effect of contrast. So, with yellow, you might see a nice bright green, and with an orange saree, an equally absorbing yet mesmerizing black border. Sometimes, the pallav might be double-shaded, giving out a reflection of royal luster. Lattice work, which creates small diamond-like shapes, can also be commonly found on the border of a Bomkai saree.
In order to distinguish genuine Bomkai sarees from artificial ones, one can take a look at the following pointers: Traditionally, these are distinct in their use of heavily plied cotton, with stylized floral and geometrical patterns in the borders and contrast color border and pallu (muhajorha). Generally, colors are very bright like red, black, dark green, dark blue, white, etc.
Designs have small dots within, which is not seen in other textiles. The body and pallu warp are joined to get the contrasting color effect. Sometimes it combines bandha (tie-dye) and supplementary. Like the Sambalpuri weave, the name Bomkai is synonymous with Odisha. A Bomkai saree uses motifs that are quite uncommon when compared to the ubiquitous and most used designs of traditional Indian weaves.
The intricate and sophisticated weaving of Bomkai sarees makes them the best ethnic wear for festive and formal occasions. Here is an example of Bomkai sarees which you can style according to your mood, taste, and the event you are attending.
Made with pure silk and handwoven, this Bomkai saree offers a regal and elegant drape. The border displays a classic temple pattern and the pallu is covered in intricately woven images of dancing girls that bring a hint of culture to the attire. You can pair this with traditional Indian jewelry to leave a mark at any festive event with your royal taste in fashion.
Another silk Bomkai saree, this blue drape stands out with the charming handpainted Patachitra art on its body. Beautiful details on the border and pallu make this saree not just a lovely piece of traditional wear but also a display of the cultural heritage of Odisha, combining its two prominent art traditions- Bomkai and Patachitra in one canvas that you can wear and flaunt.
Sophisticated and understated, this is a truly traditional Bomkai, woven with classic patterns on the border, body, and pallu. The feminine touch of magenta is contrasted by the mystique of black, creating a saree you can wear on festive as well as formal days.
The earthy mahogany tone makes this Bomkai saree a refined traditional wear. The border displays a rich traditional woven pattern and the pallu is an appealing element covered in intricate motifs that give the light and effortless drape a rich effect. The color combination and use of traditional weaving techniques make this Bomkai saree a perfect ensemble for making a statement during formal gatherings.
Crafted with cotton, this Bomkai saree is an expression of the comfort and beauty that traditional Indian weaves offer. The graceful combination of an intricate border and a plain body with tiny butis ending in an exquisitely woven pallu bring a classic charm to the saree, which you can style according to the occasion, making it a handloom staple for your wardrobe.
The auspicious and royal green rules the drape of this Bomkai saree. The body is decorated with contrasting butis woven into the fabric, complemented by the rich work on the border and an even richer display of weaving on the pallu. Pair this drape with traditional Indian jewelry for festive occasions to leave a mark on your unique style.
One of the most interesting innovations in the history of Bomkai was the introduction of zari threadwork in its weaving. Angular discontinuance that stuck to creating traditional motifs on the pallav makes use of a new base now in the form of shimmering zari. In that way, the Bomkai manages to sell old wine in a new bottle successfully, not compromising on the likes and dislikes of the industry.
A Bomkai saree is largely worn by Kathak dancers around the world. Because it is considered auspicious, the brahmins of the southern part of Odisha wear only Bomkai sarees on religious occasions. Bomkai is one of the major attractions in world fairs on fabrics, textiles, and attires. The Bomkai or the Sonepuri Saree was a great attraction in the wedding of renowned Bollywood couple Abhishek Bachhan-Aishwarya Rai.
A Bomaki saree, called Radhakunja, designed by Chaturbhuj Meher at Sonepur, was worn by actor Aishwarya Rai Bachchan for her wedding. Every time there is an award show or a wedding coming up in Bollywood, there is an unprecedented increase in the demand for Bomkai sarees.
Odisha’s expertise in weaving handloom is unparalleled in the country. Whether it is Bomkai, Ikat, or Pasapalli, the ubiquitous handloom is identifiable with the state’s rich culture and traditions. Amidst this treasure of handloom, Bomkai remains a classic and lesser-known traditional Indian saree that needs to be on your shopping list!
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