Pashmina of Kashmir: The Delicate Threads of History

Table of Content

• Introduction

• Rishi Kashyapa and the Birth of Kashmir

• Kashmir in Indian History

• Mughal Period : When the Craft of Pashmina Bloomed Imperially

• A Magic Undying: Pashmina Shawl in the Present Day

A 15th-century text called Rajatarangini (not to be confused with the more popular book of Kalhanna with the same title) written by Srivara describes the fine woolen textiles of Kashmir, with stitched designs that “filled even painters with surprise.” The poet was most probably talking about the world-renowned Pashmina shawls of the region, which came into existence years before him, and continues to rule the world of luxury fashion with their delicateness, warmth, and colorful embroidery.

The people of Kashmir who weave these homespun magical wraps in their houses- warmed by angeethi (stove), Huqqa (pipe), and their unshakable will, have kept the age-old craft of Pashmina weaving intact which was brought to their region as the result of a Kashmiri prince being taken as a hostage to Samarqand. This prince, named Shahi Khan made the best of his condition as he roamed in the city of his captor Taimur Lane, and learned the techniques that were to become the basis of the Pashmina industry in Kashmir. Later crowned as Zain ul-Abdin, Shahi Khan developed Kashmir as a hub for artisans and craftsmen, who traveled from different regions and filled the fabric of Kashmiri society with the colorful threads of their native culture. Though clear, written evidences for Pashmina come from early medieval and medieval period, the geographical location of Kashmir pre-decided its role as the abode of this superbly detailed craft.

The cold and adverse climate of Kashmir along with its tumulus political situations offered a slow cooking to the cultural spices that were added to it as a melting pot, resulting in the mind-blowing recipe of Pashmina, sworn upon and passed down from one generation to the other.

Rishi Kashyapa and the Birth of Kashmir

The craft of Pashmina might have developed in the medieval period, but the links of Kashmir with Indian culture go back to ancient times. The local legend of Kashmir narrates that the ocean of goddess Sati sprawled in the region until the sage Kashyapa offered prayers so that the ocean would dry. His prayers were answered and the land that emerged from the ocean came to be known as Kashmir (Kashmira- the lake of Kashyapa).

Kashmir in Indian History

From the time of the Stone Age, Kashmir shows evidence of civilization at sites such as Burzahom, along with pottery and other crafts, highlighting the presence of art in the valley from the beginning of civilization.

Under the rule of Ashoka, Buddhism extended its sway over Kashmir. Hinduism, especially Shaivism and Tantra also had a popular following among the people of Kashmir. Besides the inspirations drawn from within the country, Kashmir had a unique location which made it a favorite of foreign expansions and cultural missions from the Middle East and Central Asia. From Greeks, Kushanas, Huns, and Persians to the British, the interaction of the seemingly isolated valley with the rest of the world gave it a chance to imbibe impressions from all over the world, which are visible on the gentle fabric of Pashmina.

Culturally, the region continued to bloom from the ancient to the medieval period, when seminal works such as the Natayashastra (10th to 12th century), Rajatarangini, and architecture of different religions were constructed. Patronization of the handmade arts and crafts of Kashmir came from the royal families of Kashmir and the nobility, who knew how to stay royally fashionable even in the most hostile terrains.

Mughal Period : When the Craft of Pashmina Bloomed Imperially

With the advent of the Mughals, who had strong links with Persia and its culture, the craft of Pashmina found a formidable source of patronization and royal aficionados who truly appreciated, and enhanced its value with their demands. According to the Ain-i Akbari, Emperor Akbar not only harbored great admiration for Pashminas but introduced several methods of draping and styles of adding the shawls to the royal attire, which remain a part of traditional Indian fashion to date. The value of Kashmiri Pashmina in this period can be assessed from the fact that these shawls were not only gifted to the royal household and nobility but were also treated as an article of bribe!

In the modern period, the dreamy touch of Pashmina shawls charmed the European traders and imperialists, who anglicized the popular Kashmiri luxury trade and gift article as “Cashmere”. As in India so in Europe, Cashmere or Pashmina shawls became a staple of the aristocracy, who became the major demand creator for this traditional Indian statement clothing.

A Magic Undying: Pashmina Shawl in the Present Day

The modern fashion world has followed in the footstep of their ancestors by appreciating and including Pashmina shawls and scarves as exquisite luxury wear to leave a mark on any occasion. Wear these delicate Indian wears as a wrap, drape them around your neck or use them as an Odhani (stole), a Pashmina in your wardrobe will never fail to impress you with its timeless weaves.

If you have endured us till here for your love for traditional Indian crafts, you deserve an intricately handmade, lavish Pashmina shawl in your wardrobe, to reward your quest for culture. Exotic India Art offers a handpicked assortment of luxuriant Pashminas to add a tinge of Kashmir’s legendary beauty to your fashion. Visit our online collection of pure Pashminas and let the warmth of Kashmiri wool cradle you in its tender embrace.