Not all saris are created equal. In the world of Indian saris, the Banarasi Sarees is in a class of its own. In fact, a few years ago, the Banarasi sari was granted Geographical Indication rights, which distinguishes a product as originating from a particular region, where superior quality, excellence, renown, and distinct characteristics are associated with that specific location.
This means that, much like Champagne must come from the Champagne region of France in order for it to be actually called Champagne, a sari must meet certain characteristics and be produced within the six districts of Uttar Pradesh in order for it to be rightfully called a Banarasi Saree.
So, what makes the Banarasi Saree so special? First, it’s important to understand its history. Banarasi Sarees originate from the city of Varanasi, also known as Banaras, which is, naturally, within the region of Uttar Pradesh, India. It was during the Mughal period in the 14th century when the art of intricate weaving began to flourish in the city.
During those times, the exquisite silk of the Banarasi Sari was exclusively crafted for royalty and was woven using genuine gold and silver threads. It could often take as long as one year in order to handcraft these silks. Suffice it to say, when it came to garments, the Banarasi Sari represented the pinnacle of quality craftsmanship, luxury, and extravagance.
Apart from the distinct metallic sheen of the Banarasi Saree, created by the gold and silver threads, it is also characterized by rich colors, intricate designs, and brocade or zari, which make it quite a heavy garment. Persian motifs, as well as Indian themes are the customary patterns. The Banarasi Sari is particularly eye-catching because of its opulent embroidery that’s often in the form of floral and foliate motifs.
A particularly recognizable design is the line of vertical leaves, called jhallar, that’s positioned in the outer edge or border of the sari. A Banarasi Sari can currently be handcrafted in anywhere from fifteen days to one month to even six months, largely depending on the intricacy and complexity of its design and patterns.
What makes a Banarasi saree an unparalleled piece of wearable history, is the methods and materials that are used in making these drapes. Pure silk yarns, threads of gold and silver obtained from the goldsmiths who prepare them, especially for the sarees, and the long hours of the weavers make a Banarasi saree truly special.
☀ The process of weaving a Banarasi saree begins with the choice of a design by the head weaver. This is called Naqshabandi, creation of a map or pattern for the saree, which takes inspiration from medieval architecture, natural beauty, and modern motifs. After picking the design, it is drawn on a graph and this paper is called “naqsha”.
☀ The second step is the preparation of the yarn for the weaving. A pure silk or blended yarn is dipped in the color chosen for the saree, which is dyed and starched- a process that makes weaving crease-free and gives the saree a delicate finish.
☀ In the next step the warp and weft threads are placed perfectly on the loom, stretched, and measured to prepare them for the weaving process.
☀ Then the loom is prepared, which are traditionally handlooms, but some weavers prefer jacquard weaving looms which creates fine designs.
☀ Once all these steps are done, the weaving begins. The weavers by looking at the graph prepared, neatly weave the warp and weft threads together, slowly bringing a Banarasi saree to life.
A few popular traditional varieties prepared with the weaving are-
☀ Jangla weave- This creates a jungle or forest of floral vines and vegetation patterns all over the body of the saree, using Zari and silk threads, giving it a rich beauty. A Jangla patterned Banarasi is preferred for festive occasions such as weddings for their luxurious and detailed look.
☀ Tanchoi - a style that traveled from China to India with the merchants, this involves ornate patterns all over with pure silk threads, that give a light yet rich appeal to the drape. Contrasting or complementing shades of silk threads are used by the weavers, to give the drape a subtle shine and texture unique to the Tanchoi Banarasi saree.
☀ Cutwork - A traditional style of Banarasi weaving, Cutwork involves the “cutting” of extra threads of silk and Zari on one side of the saree, giving it a textured and traditional look that is associated with handcrafted textiles.
☀ The use of Zari in weaving a Banarasi is in itself an important step, as the quality, price, and beauty of a Banarasi saree are decided (among other factors) by this step. The weavers pick fine-quality Zari from the market, which is available in gold, silver, and copper variants. Copper Zari covered in a golden or silver color is also used to craft affordable Banarasi sarees.
☀ In the final step, the weavers trim any extra thread from the drape and add elaborate embroidery to the pallu or border, which are the most artistic elements of a Banarasi saree.
Though any Banarasi saree that you have in your wardrobe is a cherished piece of craft, here is a list of drapes that you can pick and start creating a personal collection of Banarasis.
Wrapped in a bright red Banarasi, blissfully moving towards her happy married life, every lover of traditional Indian fashion wishes to have this dream come true on her big day. Having a red Banarasi silk saree is like having a masterpiece of clothing, that you can keep on refashioning throughout your life, and can pass on to your beloved daughters or family members as an heirloom laced with love and memories.
Kora silk, also called organza is a popular variety of Banarasi, among the modern wearers. Lightweight, easy to carry throughout the day, and covered in classic motifs, Kora silk sarees are a perfect choice for formal appearances, as a symbol of understated beauty.
The half-saree is a traditional and effortless way of carrying the charm of a drape, where the lower garment is made like a skirt, paired with a blouse and a dupatta that drapes around the body like the pallu of a saree. A favorite of busy fashionistas who want to enjoy the luxury of sarees, the half-saree is often made with a Banarasi weave in the skirt, giving it a rich appeal. A display of intricate weaving, brocade, and Zari adds a festive touch to the look, while the easy-to-carry style makes it a perfect variety of Banarasi to have in your wardrobe.
inspired by the hunting grounds visited by royal kings, Shikargah (hunting field) Banarasi sarees were a staple in the styling of the elites, a symbol of the power and regalia of the families. These drapes are decorated with figures of animals such as elephants, deer, and lions, within flowering vegetation, that reminds one of the jungle. Ornately covered in Zari and motifs of splendor, Shikargah sarees are a great way to experience the luxury of Banarasi’s glorious past.
Synonymous with luxury and elegance, Munga or Muga silk is usually associated with Assam, but this wild silk variety is used to craft appealing Banarasi sarees. In early times, Munga silk was used to make sarees only for the royals and rich, who could afford the price of this delicate yarn. A Munga silk saree is translucent and feathery light, with a silken texture, decorated with Zari that makes it an easy-to-style statement of refined taste.
A heritage brocaded Banarasi is priceless, for it is a rare piece of craft that represents the skills and artistic mastery of the traditional weavers. Even today, a brocaded Banarasi, covered in Zari works all over, with silk threads and Zari blending together to form a lustrous, almost glowing drape is matchless. A brocaded Banarasi saree can be your go-to clothing if you love classic Indian style and want to channel your inner queen.
A plain drape of Banarasi, with minimal motifs and contrast border and pallu, is a timeless way, taken by women in positions of power to express opulence and femininity while carrying a feminine appeal. The soft and drapable silk wraps the wearer in these sarees, while the rich work on the border and endpiece reminds one of the regal history of the saree, becoming a statement of luxury in simplicity.
What if sarees are just not your thing? Worry not, you can still relish in the royal beauty of Banarasi weaves through the lovely Banarasi dupatta. Covered in traditional patterns derived from heritage Banarasi sarees, embellished with Zari and vivid silk threads, Banarasi dupattas are a superb way to transform your ensembles from plain to divine!
Today, the Banarasi Sari is still among the finest silk sarees that once can drape around the body. While it can be handcrafted in an infinite variety of colors and patterns, it has four main varieties, based on the fabric, which include the Katan (pure silk), Kora (organza), Georgette saree, and Shatir saree. It can also be distinguished by the design process that was used to create it, of which there are six:
1. Jangla
2. Tanchoi
3. Vaskat
4. Cutwork
5. Tissue
6. Butidar
The Banarasi Saree is such a part of Indian culture that it is often considered an essential part of an Indian bride’s trousseau. In fact, mothers and grandmothers have been known to collect the magnificent saris from the moment a daughter is born. While Banarasi Sarees are still painstakingly made today, heirloom saris, passed down from generation to generation, are even more highly prized and cherished.
These exceedingly special and brilliant saris are not only reserved for brides. The heavily decorated saris with embroidery on rich colors are also often worn for special events and occasions. To match the lavish brilliance and grandeur of the Banarasi Sari, it is often accessorized with the finest jewels. While it is worn with stunning jewelry, the Banarasi Saree itself is a magnificent jewel in Indian culture.
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