Bandhej and Lehriya (implying Tie and Dye), a form of resist dyeing, is a technique of patterning fabric by tying parts of it in different ways to prevent the penetration of dyes. Bandhani comes from the Sanskrit word, ‘bandh’ which means to tie. This craft is one of the oldest in the world for making colored designs on a fabric.
The technique involves dyeing a fabric that is tied tightly with a thread at several points in various colors, thus producing a variety of patterns like Bandhni, Lehriya, Mothda, Ekdali, and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. There is a magical quality about Bandhini: vibrant colors, arresting combinations, dramatic swirls, and twirl – “Bandhini” derives its name from the Hindi word Bandhan which means ties, relation, and therefore tying up.
It is an antique art generally practiced mainly in Western India. Bandhani is being sold all over India and the demand has increased over the past few decades. Sales go up during the festive and wedding seasons in India. The majority of the market is domestic. If talking in terms of international demand, Safas and turbans of various kinds are more popular. It is generally believed that the ‘Tie & Dye’ method began almost 5000 years before!
Again, it is another assumption that it was during the reign of King Harshacharita, that the ‘Bandhani’ saree was donned initially and the occasion was a regal wedding. It is also presumed that the method of ‘Tie & Dye’ was customary at the time of Tang Dynasty rule in China and at the time of Nara in Japan. Bandhini is the Rajasthani art of tying small dots on fabric with a continuous thread and dyeing it.
The result is a vibrant and irregular mix of vermillion and saffron, emerald and sapphire, or aqua and yellow. Interestingly, the art of tying involves the use of a long fingernail, which is used to pick that portion of the fabric that has to be tied. Main Centres for Bandhani are Jodhpur, Jaipur, and Udaipur in Rajasthan.
A specialty of Rajasthan is the Leheriya or Chundari where the fabric is tied to create stripes instead of the usual dots. The Leheriya technique is quite different from the Bandani technique although this is a tie and dye process. Here the fabric is rolled from one corner to the other diagonally and then it is tied at intervals with strings.
Mothra is an extension of Leheriya in which diagonal lines cross each other in opposite directions, at 45 degrees, giving rise to small diamond shapes. When many think of tie-dye, their minds travel to the 1960s and 1970s hippie movement in the United States. However, the history of tie-dyeing can be traced to pre-historic times.
There is tie-dye evidence as far back as the 300s BC, as Alexander the Great mentions in his texts the beautiful dyes he encountered in India. For centuries in India, Japan, and Africa, different tying and dyeing techniques have been practiced using both natural and man-made elements to create both plain and patterned pieces.
Dyes in India have held deep meaning for thousands of years for several reasons. One example still practiced today is that for good fortune, brides have traditionally worn the “Bandhani” saree. The ancient “Bandhani,” or Indian Tie & Dye technique began around 5000 years ago in the Indian states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Many believe and attribute the Muslim Khatri community of Kutch as some of the first to use this form of dyeing.
Bandhani is extremely prevalent in Gujarat. However, Rajasthan also produces fine-quality bandhej. Places in Rajasthan like Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar in Gujarat are the well-known centers producing odhnis (Dupattas), sarees and turbans in Bandhani. Different communities in Rajasthan have for ages followed the tradition of tying turbans with different patterns of bandhani on their heads.
These were used to identify which community the person belonged to. The safas or turbans look beautiful in orange, red or multi-colored patterns. The art of bandhani is currently concentrated in desert areas from Kutch in Gujarat, through Saurashtra, Rajasthan, and Haryana, to the environs of Delhi. The finest tie-dye is produced by the Khatri community in Kutch, Gujarat.
Madhya Pradesh also produces tie-dyed fabrics, used by peasants and tribal communities, in its areas bordering Rajasthan. Another minor center is Madurai in Tamil Nadu. Special types of bandhani are made for the Muslim Bora community, as well as for the Khatris' own families. The Bora women wear an abho (a loose shirt) and salwar (pantaloons), as well as ordhani (veils).
These are mostly in silk with black backgrounds and motifs worked in red. Thick cotton cloth with bold tie-dyed patterns was made for the seminomadic Rabaris, as well as for the skirts of the Meghvals, the craftsmen's community. Woven woolen shawls were also tie-dyed and embellished with embroidery.
It is the oldest method still in practice and is used to make sarees, odhnis, and turbans. “Bandhani” comes from the word “bandhan” which means tying up, the technique that is used to make different patterns. People often wear a unique pattern that identifies them as a members of a particular community.
The Bandhani techniques have been passed on from generation to generation as a form of art. The patterns are made in very particular ways, depending on how the cloth is tied. In early times, natural elements such as flowers, roots, leaves, bark, and berries were used to make the dyes. Today, both natural and man-made elements are used.
The area of fabric to be dyed is outlined lightly in the color of choice. Next, a thin sheet of clear plastic is placed on top. This plastic has pin-sized holes over the indicated area, and the color and pattern desired are transferred onto the fabric. The dyer then finds a spot with an imprint of the hole and pulls a small amount of fabric through, winding thread around the cloth and coming through the hole to form a small knot.
After all knots are tied, the fabric is washed to remove the imprints left. After this, the cloth is dipped in a chemical called naphthol for five minutes, and then in a light color dye for another two minutes. The fabric is rinsed, excess liquid squeezed out, and then it is dried, tied, and dipped again in a darker color.
The cloth is left alone for three to four hours as the colors soak into the desired areas, allowing the fabric beneath the threaded knots to remain undyed. Once completed, the fabric is washed and starched as required. Once dry, the makers pull apart the fabric in a very precise way to release the tied knots and reveal the unique pattern of blank dots beneath them. The result of this Bandhani tie & dye technique is a beautifully dyed fabric with elaborate shapes and designs, such as flowers and bells.
The most common clusters and patterns of knots made from clusters each have their own name.
☀ Ekdali -: single dot
☀ Tikunthi -: three dots that make circles and squares
☀ Chaubundi -: four dots
☀ Satbandi -: dots in groups of seven
☀ Boond -: small dot with a dark centre
☀ Kodi -: tear or drop-shaped pattern
☀ Dungar Shahi or Shikargah -: a mountain like pattern
☀ Jaaldar -: web like pattern
☀ Beldaar -: vine like pattern
☀ Laddu Jalebi -: swirling pattern
☀ Leheriya -: wave like pattern
Well, this is an obvious entry. A Bandhani saree is not just clothing, but a part of the traditional and cultural beliefs of Gujarat and Rajasthan. For many communities, a Bandhani is a must-have drape in the trousseau of the bride, who more often than not, gets the saree from her mother. The heirloom received before her marriage, blesses the girl with auspiciousness and happiness in her union.
The Gharchola, a red and white clothing made in the Bandhani technique, decorated with Zari and rich embroidery is a classic Gujarati bridal wear, embellished with lucky motifs that are believed to bring happiness and fertility in the life of the bride. Placing the Gharchola as a veil, the bride moves into her new home, the drape connecting her with the elder women of her family through the warmth that it symbolizes.
A Bandhani dupatta is a must-have article of clothing in your wardrobe if you enjoy vivid colors and prints and have a collection of Indian salwar kameez that you need to pair with some unique accessories. With its appealing colors and the dot motif, Bandhani dupattas are a lovely piece of clothing, that can make any simple outfit a festive one. Bandhani dupatta are available in cotton, silk, and blend material, that you can choose from to upscale your casual salwar suits or elevate your lehengas and sarees for festivals.
The local communities who make Bandhani clothing in Rajasthan and Gujarat also use the technique to add a colorful touch to their ethnic winter wear. Usually used for shawls by the Meghwals and other such tribal groups, Bandhani looks amazing on woolen fabric as well. Bandhani shawls can be a great way to add color to your winter looks, especially for festive ensembles when vibrant options seem too limited. Whether you are wearing a saree, lehenga, fusion wear or kurta, a simple addition of a Bandhani shawl can make an outfit eye-catching.
Anarkali suits decorated with Bandhani’s classic buti pattern are a great option for festive occasions, as an understated yet charming ethnic wear. Traditional suits offer ease with elegance and thanks to the colorful Bandhani prints, these can be your go-to pick for any occasion. You can pair a Bandhani suit with traditional Indian jewelry to complete your look for the festive season.
Designers who adore the boho-chic feel of Bandhani’s repetitive dot and rich colors have created many ethnic and fusion pieces that are perfect for the experimental fashionistas out there. These clothing pieces blend the comfort of traditional Indian salwar suits with a modern vibe that matches the current trends in fashion. Pair these pieces with chunky stone jewelry or sterling silver statement pieces for unforgettable party looks.
For the causal and comfy dressing, Bandhani skirts are a great choice. Made with pure cotton and blends that are breathable, Bandhani skirts can be styled with short kurtis, tops, and shirts. You can add jewellery and footwear such as Juttis to give the look a lovely traditional vibe or can add a simple t-shirt for an easy-going look.
When talking about Bandhani, we can never forget a stunning Bandhani lehenga choli. A staple during Navaratri and other festivities in Gujarat and Rajasthan, Bandhani lehengas have now become a favorite of women all over India, who love its authentic appeal as they twirl in the Garba. Bandhani lehenga cholis are mostly styled with traditional silver jewelry. You can add an embellished potli bag to the look and get ready to steal hearts with your groovy style!
Georgette and chiffon sarees made for festive occasions are often decorated with the chractersitc bundi or dot motif of Bandhani, which is replaced by sequin, stone, or embroidery to give the clothing a more glamorous look. These sarees are beautiful party wear options, in which the ethnic charm of Bandhani’s motif and modern flair come together. Wear a designer bundi-adorned saree with statement gemstone jewelry to experience the queenly vibe of Indian fashion.
Kurtas are the go-to ethnic Indian wear for men, whether it is for festivals or for formal occasions with the traditional dress code. Try a Bandhani print kurta for your next party or festive day. The comfort of cotton decorated with the elegant and understated bundi dots all over, is a classic look, which will let you stand out, as you flaunt this traditional Indian style.
A beautiful outfit for the young gentlemen can be a Bandhani printed kurta. You can pair this with a comfortable pajama or readymade dhoti to give the ensemble a charming ethnic look, which will allow them to enjoy the celebrations while looking cute as a button.
Bandhani print suits and Anarkali-style gowns are a good choice as traditional wear for girls. The flair and volume of gowns provide them with a breathable and easy-going feel, with the beautiful dots and colorful charm of Bandhani that make them look like little fairies!
For those who just can not get over the classic appeal of Bandhani, there are home decor articles such as printed cushion covers decorated with traditional Bandhani patterns. If a traditional interior is what you plan to create, these will look great placed on your sofas and beds.
The art of Bandhani is associated with the culture of the land and the social practices of its people and craftsmen. For example, a Gharchola saree with zari or golden borders is given by the man to his bride. The brides of the Khatri community wear the Chandrokhani which is believed to be a parallel between the beauty of the bride and the moon.
The Bhavan Baug and Rasamandali is a celebration of natural gardens and dance forms, formed on bright red backgrounds with designs about peacocks, elephants, and women dancing. Women adore the bandhani prints in sarees, salwar kameez, designer lehengas, and dupattas, whereas, men wear the designed turbans on important social and family occasions.
It does not lose its originality in spite of the use of synthetic colors and modern designs. The fact that it is still practiced in its place of origin speaks volumes about its sustainability and that skill and beauty always find connoisseurs and ways to survive. Just as the patterns of Bandhani dyeing hold deep meaning, so do the colors.
Traditionally, only two colors are used at a time. When this type of tie & dye began, the colors yellow and red, which are lucky in Indian culture, were used. In the Bandhani technique now, bright colors such as yellow, red, green, and pink are used in various shades. While the colors vary in modern times, certain ones still hold huge cultural meanings.
Red represents a bride or woman who was recently married, and yellows are used for a new mother. How does one recognize a real Bandhani? Structural consistency is a notable trait. There will be detailed designs comprising of strips, dots, squares, etc. The usage of vivid colors is another specialty of ‘Bandhani’.
Your email address will not be published *
Email a Friend
Manage Wishlist