The Mogappu is the front portion of a Nagarathar (a mercantile community of Tamil Nadu) home in Chettinad. The mogappu includes the entrance doorway and the pathi and thinnal (inner verandahs), which are raised platforms on either side of the passage leading from the main door to the main hall. This verandah houses the managerial staff of the family. The main hall was always used by the men of the family to receive business associates, friends, and relatives - those also, always being men. However, the men-only concept has changed today, with the women being allowed to enter these men-only precincts, to receive important family members and other guests.
Mogappu, starting from the entrance doorway, are beautifully embellished, depending on the status and wealth of the family. There are copper tooled ceilings, most walls are tiled with English or Japanese tiles up to a height of approximately five feet and the floor almost invariably is in chequered black and white Italian marble. The earlier houses still have white cement floors, though most owners have now changed them to Athangudi tiles. The main men-only hall is similarly decorated, but there is a difference. These halls are all lit by exquisite Belgian or Italian Chandeliers, whereas, the outer pathi and thinnai is lit by European (French, Italian, Belgian and Austrian) hanging lamps and sconces.
This book shows the reader the beauty of the entrance to a Nagarathar home to a great extent.
The grand mansions of Chettinad stand testimony to the rich heritage of that region and the Nagarathar Chettiar community. For these mansions, the ensemble of entrance and front facade, commonly referred to as mogappu in the Chettinad dialect, marked their style, sect and status. The compound and building walls ensured continuity, while the entrance portals and gates lent a colourful diversity to the narrow streetscapes. These hallways led through a vestibule (nadai) to the verandahs (vaaram) and foyers (thinnai), after which one would pass through the main door (thalai vasal).
The first floors, reflecting a strong western influence, add grandeur to the facade with a variety of artistic embellishments. The entry portals often feature stone steps and columns, brick walls and arches, lime-plastered fenestrations, vivid paints, wooden doors, metal fretwork, Peranakan tiles and terracotta sculptures. Later-style houses feature ferrocement and concrete works as well. Considering today's skill levels in construction, each entry of these mansions would become a project in itself!
Amar's photographs are a fitting tribute to these magnificent works done with passion and dedication by skilled artisans and craftsmen who were patronised by the Chettiar owners. The images are crisp and colourful, beautifully composed and neatly presented. Such efforts help document, disseminate and regenerate a valuable heritage, which is vanishing rapidly. I appreciate and wish him all success in such endeavours.
As a photographer, I've travelled the length and breadth of India and have had the privilege of visiting Chettinadu several times in the past decade. While shooting there, I used to take my camera on long walks snapping pictures of street life, and portraits of urban landscapes. The vibrant streets drew me in time and again and on my many trips I would explore different villages around the region. I was especially fascinated by the facades of the mansions, many still vibrant because of the care lavished on them, but some decaying from years of neglect.
What drew me first to the mogappu were the bright colours and the grand and sometimes unique statues. The statues were made of sudhai aka stucco a technique widely used in temples of that time as well. Over time, I came to admire the architects and artisans for their sense of aesthetics and playfulness. After speaking to experts and residents, I discovered the various cultural and political influences that shaped the art and architecture of this time.
Slowly, I felt like I was unveiling different layers and getting to know the persona of the residents of these homes. For me the mogappu subtly showcased the beliefs, values, profession and also perhaps the quirks of the owners, who were known to be well-travelled and wealthy.
This book is an invitation to you the viewer to look at the myriad. entrances of the region and take in their beauty and uniqueness and perhaps ponder: Who lived here?
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