I am familiar with Goa- not because it is my favourite holiday place; I find it loud, noisy, overcrowded, overpriced and 'nouveau riche'. No, I am familiar with Goa because of the Portuguese Inquisition, which took place there and targeted mainly the Hindus and their temples. Therefore, I visited Goa a number of times to study the history of the Inquisition and the archives pertaining to it. I was surprised to find that very little has been preserved of the Portuguese genocide against Hindus, neither in Goa museums, nor in physical places, like where Hindus were imprisoned, tortured or even crucified. Luckily, there are many books on the Goa Inquisition, some of them by the Portuguese themselves and therefore I was able to research and build an exhibition on the Goa Inquisition, which is today in the Shivaji Maharaj History Museum, Pune.
Hindus of Goa had not only to struggle under the Portuguese rule, but also in modern day India, from being invaded by millions of tourists every year.
Nevertheless, wherever Hindus are, they build wonderful temples, which are unique in the world. Goa is no different, and since time eternal, Hindu temples have dotted its landscape. Many were destroyed by the Portuguese, but Goa still retains a great kaleidoscope of unique Hindu temples and statues.
To understand any region, one must explore the uniqueness of its culture, the interaction between its people and environment, and how its ancestors navigated history. This is especially true for Goa-a state whose charm and complexity arise from its distinctive cultural heritage and turbulent past.
Even after gaining independence, this small region, under Portuguese rule for 450 years, faced immense challenges in preserving its identity. Goa had to struggle for both its statehood and its mother tongue, Konkani. Despite Konkani being widely spoken, the influence of Marathi and its political proponents dominated at the time, forcing Goans to take to the streets to assert their linguistic and cultural identity. In 1987, Goa was officially declared India's 25th state after the historic 1967 Opinion Poll, which ensured its distinctiveness from Maharashtra. This decision also safeguarded Goa's breathtaking natural resources, including its dense forests and rich mineral deposits.
For many Indians, particularly from metropolitan cities, Goa is often seen as a tranquil retreat-a "tourist's paradise" defined by its semi-rural charm and modern lifestyle. Picturesque dirt roads wind through verdant fields and rows of Portuguese-era cottages painted in vivid hues of saffron, yellow, and blue. These pathways lead to the sparkling white foam as waves hit the land in Goa's well-known beaches towards the limitless clean sea that merges with the blue horizon. The relaxed susegad rhythm of Goan life-marked by the epicurean principles of "eat, drink, and be merry" -fascinates visitors. The freedom to enjoy life without the maddening frenzy of urban pressures, coupled with Goa's unique cuisine, is a haven for fish and meat lovers, along with free-flowing liquor, attracts tourists from the four corners of the world.
Interestingly, some Goans still reminisce about the Portuguese-era discipline and the susegad (easy-going) way of life. Crime was virtually unheard of, and homes followed an open-door policy, both during the day and night. However, with time, Goa's identity has also been shaped by its active citizenry, who are vocal and fearless in addressing social, political, and environmental concerns. Activists-often teachers, writers, artists, and youth-come together to challenge vested interests, from mining disputes to corruption and ecological degradation. Through community initiatives, they organize poetry readings, cultural events, and historical explorations that preserve Goa's rich heritage.
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