When PM Modi chose a Kashmiri Kani shawl to welcome Rama Lala, he honored centuries of royal artistry. Handwoven in Kanihama, these shawls trace their roots to the Mughal courts and later became symbols of elegance in Europe. Adorned with intricate floral motifs and woven with remarkable patience, each Kani shawl represents devotion, heritage, and timeless craftsmanship bridging India’s cultural past with the pride of its modern identity.
PM Lighting the Ram-Jyoti at his Delhi Residence (Source: India today)
When Prime Minister Narendra Modi lighting the sacred Ram-Jyoti at his residence in New Delhi, the image became a moment of spiritual pride for millions awaiting Rama Lala’s homecoming to Ayodhya. The “Ram-Jyoti” (Lamp of Lord Rama) symbolizes the victory of devotion after many years and is a celebration of Deepawali, the festival of light in honor of Ayodhyapati Sri Rama. Yet, beyond the divine glow of the lamp, another symbol quietly spoke of India’s living heritage, the yellow Kani shawl gracefully draped over the Prime Minister’s shoulders.
The story of the Kani shawl begins in the serene valleys of Kashmir, where art and devotion are woven together. The term Kani comes from the tiny wooden bobbins or kanis used by weavers to interlace fine Pashmina or wool threads into vibrant, floral patterns inspired by the region’s lush landscape.
Historians trace the roots of Kani weaving to a blend of Central Asian tribal weaves and Persian tapestry art known as “Termeh.” This fusion of influences shaped a unique Kashmiri style, recognized for its delicate motifs and unparalleled refinement.
By the 15th and 16th centuries, under the patronage of the Mughal emperors, Kani shawls reached their artistic peak when rulers and their families trusted the Kashmiri shawls to give them warmth and regalia. Texts from the 15th century talk about the splendor of Kani shawls, the beauty of whose motifs and color inspired and surprised painters.
The Ain-e-Akbari talks about an established shawl weaving industry in Kashmir, and the French traveller-writer Francois Bernier in the 17th century, praises the appeal of “Cashmeres” (a European term used to describe all Kashmiri weaves, but especially the shawls) as the most exquisite fabrics known in the world.
After the Mughal era, the Sikh rulers particularly Maharaja Ranjit Singh became patrons of Kashmiri artisans who migrated to Punjab. The shawl trade flourished in Amritsar and Lahore, finding eager buyers not only among Indian elites but also in France and England, where Kani shawls became symbols of elegance and taste.
By the 19th century, European fascination had transformed the Kashmiri shawl into an international fashion statement. French women, including Empress Josephine, adored these luxurious wraps for their warmth and beauty, making the Kani shawl a global icon of refinement.
From the quiet valleys of Kashmir, Kani shawls embarked on a remarkable journey that carried them across continents and centuries. What began as a royal indulgence in India soon became a global symbol of elegance and refinement.
During the Mughal and Sikh eras, Kani shawls were offered as diplomatic gifts to kings and dignitaries. The fine texture and intricate designs made them treasured heirlooms emblems of power, artistry, and grace.
By the early 19th century, as global trade expanded through the Silk Route and British channels, these shawls reached Europe, where they captured the imagination of the elite. Shawls with gowns became a symbol of the new Parisian elite and a classic attire for French women.
Adorned with floral motifs which are universal symbols of femininity and beauty, these delicate weaves were the favorites of the queen Josephine, wife of Napolean, who boasted a vast collection of Kashmiri and Kani shawls in her royal wardrobe.
(Claude Monet’s Painting “Madame Louis Joachim Gaudibert” 1868, with the subject carrying a Kani shawl, Oil on Canvas, Source: Wikimedia Commons)
A work of the famous French painter, Claude Monet, showing his friend and patron Madame Louis Joachim Gaudibert, depicts the lady carrying a classic Kani weave shawl, with beautiful colors complementing her simple, floor-length gown. Becoming a fashion staple for the French, who is to date considered the trendsetters in the world of fashion, Kani shawls became synonymous with refined taste, subtle but alluring beauty, and timeless regalia.
Belgian Painter Alfred Stevens’ painting of Women with Large Shawls (Source: Augusta’s Trip)
Back home, the British who settled and traded Indian goods, were charmed by the luxury and history of Indian and Kashmiri weaves. The mesmerization of the European buyers of Indian Kani weaves can be seen in the variety of weaves that were being traded during the 19th century, in the list of goods prepared by a British officer William Moorcroft.
He lists shawls such as do-shala or two shawls stitched together, qasaba or rumal (kerchief), and shamla or waist girdles to name a few. A distinct and essentially royal variant of the Kani shawl is the Kani-Jamawar. The term Jamawar means a Jama or overall style wrap, which covers the whole body with its long length and ample width.
Favored by patrons in India and abroad, a Jamawar best displays the unimaginable beauty of Kani weave, with intricate and vivid floral motifs all over the fabric, woven for over two years with a patience that matches the calmness of a saint in meditation.
Today, authentic Kani shawls continue to symbolize timeless luxury. While machine-made imitations exist worldwide, genuine Kani pieces handcrafted in Kanihama under GI certification preserve the spirit of the original art form. Contemporary designers and collectors now view them not merely as fashion, but as living heritage the bridge between tradition and modern elegance.
The beauty of a Kani shawl lies not only in its intricate design but also in the discipline and devotion of the artisans who bring it to life. Woven on traditional handlooms in Kanihama, Kashmir, each shawl takes months, sometimes years to complete, depending on its complexity and pattern.
Instead of embroidery, Kani shawls are woven with colored bobbins (kanis) that replace the shuttle. Every color and motif is pre-planned on a coded design sheet called a Talim, which acts as the weaver’s blueprint. Following these coded symbols, artisans interlace the threads by hand, creating seamless, vibrant patterns without ever drawing them directly on fabric.
For each color, a separate bobbin is picked, and threads of one color are tied to the thread of the next color to achieve a seamless shift of colors of the shawl. Colors used in a Kani shawl are taken from the many colors the artists see around them, in the naturally endowed valley. Green or Zargari, White or Chot, Anari or pomegranate or red, Pink or Gulabi, and Yellow or Zard are some of the classic colors of Kani, used by the weavers to create these aesthetic pieces of clothing.
The map of colors and patterns to be followed by the weavers of Kani is known as “Talim”, which is formally recorded on a graph through codes that represent colors. After finalizing the pattern for a shawl, its colors are decided, based on which a Talim graph is prepared and read by the Talim-guru.
With rich threads, colored in bright hues that are inspired by the eye-catching colors of the Punjab hill paintings, Kani shawls are woven by the Kashmiri artisans called khandwao, “he who weaves with skill, but blindly”. This peculiar meaning of the title suggests a unique process of Kani weaving, which entails that the weavers sit in the room with the Ustad or master weaver sitting at the end, reading the instructions. Following only the voice of the master, the weavers move the bobbins through the warp threads.
This technique of Kani shawls has been preserved traditionally for generations by weavers living in the Kashmiri village of Kanihama, whose work is also registered under the Geographical Indication and prized as an artistic wearable by connoisseurs. Few crafts embody such precision, history, and soul in every thread.
From the court of Akbar to Napolean, Kani shawls as gifts were the perfect way of showering love and respecting a person. Nazraana (offerings) to the emperors and their families under the Mughals included rich Kashmiri shawls and so did the bundles of gifts to the houses of European aristocrats. Even today, to welcome an esteemed guest, draping a shawl around them is a simple yet significant practice, to reiterate the value of their presence.
PM Modi Worshipping Ram Lala, wrapped in a classic Kani, the eternal symbol of royalty (Source: India Today)
It is this luxuriant history of Kani shawls that makes it the perfect choice to be a part of the PM’s ensemble on such a monumental occasion. Donning Kani, the wrap of kings and elite, PM Modi makes a case for India’s rich history and its cultural reign over the hearts of the global population for centuries.
Celebrating and welcoming the beloved Ram Lala in a Kani shawl, the prime minister becomes one of the many prominent figures of history, who trusted the warm and refined embrace of Kani, to express the bliss and magnificence, and gave Kani its unparalleled fame, as the shawl for the royals.
A Kani Shawl is a handwoven Kashmiri shawl made using small wooden bobbins called kanis. Each piece is woven on a loom following coded design patterns known as Talim, which guide artisans in creating intricate motifs and colors.
Authentic Kani Shawls are woven in Kanihama, near Srinagar, Kashmir. The region holds a Geographical Indication (GI) certification ensuring only shawls made here using traditional methods can be called Kani Shawls.
Depending on the design, a Kani Shawl can take six months to over two years to complete. Larger Kani Jamawar shawls with full-surface patterns often require multiple artisans working together.
Kani Shawls are woven, not embroidered. The designs emerge naturally from the weaving process, giving them a seamless, double-sided finish with intricate detailing unlike other Kashmiri shawls.
Look for the GI tag from Kanihama, check both sides for identical patterns, feel for fine Pashmina or merino wool, and note subtle handwoven variations instead of machine-perfect symmetry.
Yes, modern designers integrate Kani motifs into contemporary wraps, stoles, and jackets, making them versatile for formal, festive, and luxury casual wear.
Their price reflects the time, skill, and heritage behind each piece. Every shawl involves months of meticulous weaving and generational craftsmanship, making it both a fashion item and a collector’s piece.
Dry clean only. Store in a breathable fabric bag away from moisture, use natural moth repellents like cedar, and fold gently instead of hanging to preserve the weave.
The Kani shawl is more than a product of Kashmir, it is the living pulse of its culture, artistry, and endurance. In every intricate weave lies a lineage of stories that span empires, continents, and centuries. Whether draped as a statement of elegance or treasured as a collector’s heirloom, the Kani remains a masterpiece of heritage that never fades with time. Inspired by the PM’s Kani wrap and want to experience the extravagance of Kashmiri Kani weaves? Visit Exotic India’s collection of high-end Kani, Jamawar, and other Kashmiri shawls, and enjoy the cold weather like a royal.
1. Crafts of Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh (Edited by Jaya Jaitly)
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