Vijayanagara (An Old and Rare Book)

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Vijayanagara is perhaps the most extensive city of the medieval period, of which archaeological evidence has been preserved intact. It offers to the scholars and archaeologists excellent opportunities to understand the pattern of a medieval city. The contemporary literary works, in kannada, sanskrit and telugu, as well as the descriptions given by the foreign visitors help in unearthing the archaeological remains of the city. With all the data available to understand this magnificent city, the city had long been forgotten. Thanks to the forsight of the Government of Karnataka, a massive project is now afoot to bring to light the growth and development of this great city.

Under the project "Resurrection of Hampi", the Directorate of Archaeology and Museums in Karnataka, has taken up large scale excavations, restoration and research at Vijayanagara. Since 1979, the operations are in progress. It was, therefore thought essential and important to record the progress achieved so far for the benefit of the people, scholars and students. Hence the present publication.

In achieving the progress the Directorate has received invaluable encourage-ment, guidance and help. It is, therefore, our pleasant duty to record our deep debt of gratitude to all concerned.

Government of Karnataka, who have initiated the project, under the guidance of The Hampi Resurrection Authority, headed by the Hon'ble Chief Minister. Shri Ramakrishna Hegde, have been giving unstinted support for the project continuously. But for their generosity, the Research Project would not have achieved the success which it has and is reported here. Inspite of his busy schedule, the Hon'ble Chief Minister has blessed this publication with a foreword. We would also like to record our deep debt of gratitude to the Government of Karnataka and the Hon'ble Chief Minister. In this connection, we would like to remember the encouragement and the keen personal interest extended by the former Finance Minister and the then Chairman of The Hampi Resurrection Authority.

The Director General of Archaeology in India and Sri L.K. Srinivasan, the then Superintending Archaeologist (now Director of Antiquities) and his staff extended all cooperation in our project. Dr.(Mrs) Kapila Vatsyayan, Additional Secretary, Department of Culture, Govt. of India, literally snatched from her busy programmes three days to visit Vijayanagara, to see the progress of work. We are grateful to all of them for their sustained encouragement and cooperation.

In carrying out the excavations, conservation and renovation, I am deeply beholden to my staff. I must mention, particularly. Sri C.S. Patil, the Technical Assistant in charge of the site, who has not only borne the brunt of carrying out the excavations, but has also commendably conducted the camp. Inspite of heavy stress, he has contributed research papers to this publication. He deserves my special gratitude. Sriyuths: K.N. Puttanna and M.G. Venkatesha-murthy have looked after the clearance operations of Nagareshvara and Ahmadkhan's Dharmasala, and have conserved the former to its original shape. They deserve to be specially thanked. Sri Kuppachari has done the drawings of excavations while Sri Balaraja Naidu has commendably photographed the cultural remains published here. Some of the details of the structures were drawn by the students of architectural team working under the guidance of Dr. George Michell. Particularly mention must be made of Mr. Khai Yip Mun and Mr. Patrick Collins, both from Australia.

The very mention of 'Vijayanagara' thrills the people of Karnataka. It, at once, conjures un a vivid picture of a city with lofty 'Gopuram of the Virupaksha Temple, the stone Chariot of Vithala and the Dasara festivities which were held in Mahanavami Dibba. More than anything, the two great personalities Vidyaranya and Krishnadevaraya appear foremost before the mind's eye.

It is well known that, but for the establishment of Vijayanagara empire and this great city in the middle of the 14th century, perhaps the entire history of India would have changed its course. Vijayanagar empire helped preserve the best of Indian cultural traditions in history, art, religion and society.

And yet this city and the empire have long been forgotten. Scholars started writing about this "Forgotten Empire" only since the last Century. But still the cultural history and artistic legacy of the city have not received the attention they richly deserve. Therefore, the Karnataka Government have decided to make every effort for the resurrection of this city and restore the grandeur that belongs to it.

The Director of Archaeology and Museums in Karnataka has taken up a programme of excavations, restoration and research at Hampi (Vijayanagara). In this publication, the work so far carried out has been reported for the information of the people, scholars and students. The work done is commendable and it is hoped that the sustained efforts of the Directorate will continue and before long, the city will regain its past glory.

In the year 1336 A.D. there occurred in India, an event which instantaneously changed the political condition of the entire South. It was the foundation of the city and Kingdom of Vijayanagara. It was an epoch making event, which caused the renaissance of Indian Culture. The foundation of this city caused the cohesion of all the crumbling states of the South. into a single empire, and became the saviour of Indian Culture in general and South India in particular.

The City of Victory, Vijayanagara, was located in picturesque surroundings, amidst striking and beautiful scenery, depicting nature at its wildest and best.

The site is naturally endowed with great strategic strength. The wide, torrential and almost unfordable Tungabhadra on the one hand, and the impassable craggy granite hills, and ranges with bare and denuded boulders and tors on the other provided strong natural defenses which the rulers used to atmost advantage.

The city, was named Vijayanagara or the city of victory, or 'Vidyānagara in memory of the sage Vidyaranya who was mainly responsible for the founding of the city.

The Imperial Capital, at its heyday has been visited by several foreign travellers, the chief among whom are the Moorish Traveller Abdur Razzak, the Russian Nikitin, the Portuguese travellers, Duarte Barbosa, Domingo Paes and Fernao Nuniz and the Italian Nicolo Conti. They have all left graphic description of the grandeur of the imperial city which they saw.

Abdur Razzak visited the city during the reign of Devaraya II (A.D. 1419-1444). He left Persia entrusted with ambassodorial mission from Persia, left his country on January 13, 1442 (A.D.) and arrived in Vijayanagara at the end of April 1443, visiting several places of interest (including the Channakeshava Temple at Belur). He stayed in the city till December 1443. He was wonderstruck at the grandeur of the city, and has left a graphic description of the city as he saw it, as well as the festivities, particularly the Dasara. Of the city, he exclaims, "The city of Bidjanagar is such that the pupil of the eye has never seen a place like it, and the ear intelligence has never been informed that there existed anything to equal it in the world"¹. The Bazars also did not escape his attention. "The bazaars are extremely broad. Roses are sold everywhere. These people could not live without roses, and they look upon as quite necessary as food..... Each class of men belonging to each profession has shops contiguous to one another; The jewellers sell publicly in the bazaars pearls, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds"

The Dasara festivities seen by Abdur Razaak deserve to be told in his own words "In pursuance of orders issued by the king of Bidjanagar, the generals and principal personages from all parts of his empire... presented themselves at the palace. They brought with them a thousand elephants... which were covered with brilliant armour and with castles magnificently adorned.... During three consecutive days in the month of Redjeb the vast space of land magnificently decorated, in which the enormous elephants were congregated together, presented the appearance of the waves of the sea, or of that compact mass which will be assembled together at the day of the resurrection. Over this magnificent space were erected numerous pavillions, to the height of three, four, or even five storeys, covered from top to bottom with figures in relief... Some of these pavillions were arranged in such a manner that they could turn rapidly round and present a new face at each moment a new chamber or a new hall presented itself to the view".

"In the front of his palace rose a place with nine pavillions magnificently ornamented. In the ninth the king's throne was set up. In the seventh was allotted a place to the humble author of his narrative... Between the palace and the pavillions...were musicians and story-tellers".

Girls were there in magnificent dresses, dancing "behind a pretty curtain opposite the king". There were numberless performances given by jugglers, who displayed elephants marvelously trained.

During three consecutive days, from sunrise to sunset, the royal festival was prolonged in a style of the greatest magnificence. Fireworks, games, and amusements went on. On the third day the writer was presented to the king.