“One can write the cultural history of India with a thread”. This statement could not be truer in the case of Kutchi shawls, woven with pride and skills in the Kutch region of Gujarat.
A mix of cultures and techniques of different local communities of Rajasthan and Gujarat, Kutchi shawls carry in the threads of their embroidery, the history of more than 600 years!
According to the local lores and history, several communities of Rajasthan immigrated to Kutch several hundred years ago, including the Meghwals, the community that continues to cherish the art of traditional shawl weaving in the region.
Another folklore talks about a Rabari girl from a rich family in Rajasthan, who moves to Kutch after her marriage. In her large dowry was a traditional weaver, whose family grew in number over decades, creating a community of weavers in Kutch.
A third legend is associated with a local revered figure, Pir or Baba Ramdev, who visited the Narayan Sarovar in the region and was welcomed by the people with a temple built in his name.
His devotee requested Baba to call his family members to look after the shrine, leading to a journey of Baba Ramdev’s relatives to Gujrat, with whom traveled the craft of shawl weaving.
Whatever story one might choose to believe, a common, running thread in all these narratives is that of movement- people going from Rajasthan to Gujarat. Thus, the impact of both cultures in the making of beautiful Kutchi shawls is undeniable.
Once the weaving community began settling down, they looked for raw materials and patrons and found great support from the local Rabri and Ahir families. Rabaris were local cattle rearers who shared raw wool with the weavers and Ahirs supplied cotton.
The Kutchi weavers, also known as Vankars, survived and thrived with a combined community effort and in return, produced comfortable and warm shawls for their patrons.
One of the first and locally most popular wraps in Kutch is the traditional Kutch Dhabda, also called Hiraghiryu. These shawls were woven in two parts since the loom was not large enough to weave big pieces of cloth.
The parts were later stitched together with a special stitch called “khelvani”. The neat weave of Dhabda creates a mesh that holds water drops and cold out, making it a loved traditional blanket, especially for men, who stay outside in harsh climatic conditions.
It is clear that Dhabda and its ethnic motifs inspired the Kutch weavers, to create and experiment with their later weaves.
Having collected the raw material from the patrons, the Vankars take it to the next step, which is spinning.
☀ The raw yarn is spun and put into bobbins. Black wool is taken from black sheep which are relatively less in number, making the weavers choose black for only the border and smaller patterns on the shawl.
☀ Natural dyes are used, alongside classic Dhabda colors- maroon, black, yellow, pink, blue, green, which are also called Kutchi colors.
☀ The warp thread is prepared by women, stretching it on Jaal or net in their courtyards. Leases, mostly made of wood are placed to stop the thread from tangling.
☀ The threads are treated with starch for three days, to give them flexibility and strength. First with water, then with refined flour starch, and then with local bulb onion, the threads are starched.
☀ Then the threads are taken to the traditional loom, on which the weaver tediously creates the fabric of the Kutchi shawl.
☀ The technique is that of “Extra weft weaving”, in which an additional weft thread is inserted in between the usual warp and weft threads, to create a rich, textured pattern on these shawls.
One of the earliest and most intricate patterns in Kutchi shawls is the “Sacchi Kor” or the “true border” pattern, created by using multiple threads in warp and weft, on the border of the shawls.
The technique of Sacchi Kor is no longer in vogue, however, its beautiful and rich patterns inspired many motifs used in popular Kutchi shawls, appreciated by connoisseurs of Indian crafts and textiles.
☀ A popular element in Kutchi shawls is the Satkhani or seven-step pattern, which lends an elaborate feel to the fabric.
☀ Another ethnic motif of these shawls is Chaumukh or four-sided pattern, and due to its sacred geometry, it is a design of religious significance for the people of Kutch.
☀ The Dholki pattern on Kutchi shawls depicts the smaller traditional drum or Dholki, bringing a musical sweetness to its fabric.
☀ The zigzag pattern, with its appealing look, locally known as “Wankia” also forms a popular element in the motifs of Kutch shawls.
The beauty of Kutchi shawls also comes from the different and rich colors that they carry. Other than the natural dye-tinted threads, the weavers sometimes use the services of dyers, who dip the shawls in charming colors or add a multitude of shades with the local technique of tie and dye, also known as Bandhani, coloring the woolen shawls with unfading shades of Kutch’s culture.
Like any other local craft, Kutchi shawls faced the challenge of modern loom and machine-made fabric, especially in the years after the 1950s.
During this period, the residents of Bhujodi village (Bhuj, Kutch) came together to form a cooperative, named Kutch Weavers Association, which submitted the application for getting the Geographical Indication, under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
The Kutchi or Kachchh Shawls were successful in gaining the GI tag, and with that, Bhujodi became the heart of Kutch craft tradition, visited by international and national tourists every year, who relish in the colorful life of the people of Kutch.
☀ For the Lovers of Comfort - Inspired by nature and culture, the motifs and weave of the Kutchi shawl have a timeless quality, which is enhanced by the profusion of geometric and abstract patterns, another classic element in these warm wraps.
The thick and rugged texture of traditional Kutchi shawls allows them to be used and reused for years, maintaining their quality without much upkeep.
☀ For the Lovers of Fashion - The simplistic charm of these shawls is probably the best thing about them. With plain fields, minimal embellishment, and dark threadwork, a Kutchi shawl can be easily assimilated into your everyday or special ensembles, to give them the eternally fashionable feel of ethnic Indian style.
☀ For the Lovers of History - For collectors of historical crafts and traditional fashion too, a Kutchi shawl is a wearable piece of heritage. Made by Vankars who take inspiration from cultures of Rajasthan and Gujarat, and patronized by Rabaris, an itinerant community with links to North-western regions.
Kutchi shawls are a brilliant union of classic Indian colors, folk patterns of the two Indian states and sometimes remind one of the tribal Patoo or Pattu shawls of Afghanistan. It is true, that in its threads, a Kutchi shawl carries the story of India’s rich cultural heritage, that transcends space and time.
1. The Beautifully Indian Hindu Mind by Harsha V. Dehejia
2. Geographical Indicators Journal (Government of India) Volume 40
3. Dhabla and Shawls of Kutch: Preserving Identity Through Geographical Indication, by Dr. Kruti Dholakia and Dr. Jagriti Mishra
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