The silks of
Kanjivaram are the traditional wedding sarees of the region’s brides. Tucked away in a rural pocket of Tamil Nadu, these sarees are produced on handlooms of yore worked upon by intergenerational weavers and artisans. The solid-colored number that you see on this page is a fine example of this variety of Indian silk saree. The color of crushed marigolds, the natural sheen of the
fabric set off its lively, youthful hue to perfection. The thick border is a rich shade of red that complements such a color. The same is superimposed with an exceptionally dense and detailed zari weave. Zari is the vernacular word for traditional embroidery executed with pure gold thread as could be seen on the border and half the endpiece of this saree. Zoom in on the same to appreciate the intricacy of the work, the meticulousness and symmetry of the peacock motifs on the border, and the geometric patterns on the endpiece.
A saree such as this one, with only a whiff of the traditional, is best teamed with modern jewelry that you have selected yourself. Hints of solid shringar across the neck and wrists and earlobes would suffice the ethos of such a garment.
Handwoven Elegance: The Journey of a Kanjivaram Saree
Kanjivaram sarees are one of the most sought-after sarees among
Indian women. They have not only gained popularity in India but
across the globe in recent years/decades and are thus in high
demand even in the international fashion world. Made of the finest
quality silk, bearing intricate designs, and having vibrant
colors, Kanjivaram sarees have undoubtedly made their way to the
hearts of most women. The origin of these sarees is believed to
date back to the 7th century during the reign of the Chola
dynasty. Kanjivaram silk sarees originate from the city of
Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu. These sarees stand out among other sarees
because of the use of vivid colors and the natural glossy shine of
pure silk. Women prefer to drape a Kanjivaram, especially on
special occasions such as weddings and festivals to look flawless
and elegant. The most common motifs found on these sarees are
peacocks, leaves, flowers, paisleys, Kalash, etc. The
characteristic feature of Kanjivaram silk sarees is the rich Zari
work on fine silk fabric. This makes them a popular choice among
women of all age groups.
Let us look at the steps involved in the making of a Kanjivaram
silk saree:
1. Finest quality silk yarn is processed and dyed
Each Kanjivaram saree is made purely with high-quality silk and
thus the first step in the making process of the saree is to
find the best silk and process it. The silk yarn is first washed
and soaked in rice water and then dried in the sun. This step is
necessary to make the yarn strong and stiff to maintain the
durability of the fabric. It is then dyed in rich hues by hand
and again sun-dried.
2. Silk yarn is woven with the Zari
Now the colored threads are intertwined with silver thread and
these resultant threads are interlocked with golden thread. The
Zari threads (gold and silver) are produced from real silver and
gold and are sourced from Gujarat.
3. The process of weaving begins
Before weaving, the Zari threads and colored threads are sorted
to avoid any tangles and individual strands are put to the
weaving loom from one end to the other. Now the warp ends are
drawn and joined to the previous warp on the loom. The desired
design is fabricated or woven onto the fabric manually. This
technique has been passed down from one generation of skilled
weavers to the next.
4. The saree is given a finishing
Now that the saree has been woven and the desired design has
been obtained, it is sent for giving it a finished look. Any
extra threads are cut and removed to make the saree ready to be
sent to retail shops and markets for sale purposes.
The whole process of crafting a Kanjivaram silk saree may sound
or appear easy, but the amount of time and effort that it
requires is unimaginable. Depending on the intricacy of the
design, it may take several weeks or months to complete one
Kanjivaram. Although the cost of the saree is expensive (due to
the use of real gold and silver) and not many people can afford
to buy it, it has managed to be a part of beautiful family
treasures that are passed down through generations as a token of
love and affection.
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